I could hold the brass drift with my hand but my handy vise grips aren't as likely to yell OUCH. I'm going to be using a brass drift soon on the inner race, so wiping off excess grease will keep splatter to a minimum. (If I wanted to do this indoors I would use a bench vise.) I use a speed bar clamp to keep the axle from rolling around. Yum.nice black Moly grease with zero contamination. Metal snips to cut these umiversal crimp type bands which are not reusable. Old boot is intact but has fine radial cracks in the bellow grooves. I like to get the messiest part over and done quickly outside on a sunny day. Outer CV joint and boot teardown - 2 pair of nitrile gloves, a bunch of paper towels, brass drift, metal snips, adjustable beam clamp and a big hammer. They were identical so this pic is just for reference verification purposes, so just use your existing 2001 Swift left AT trans mount. I've seen those boots split in that spot where the newer tapered design boots will not.Īnd just to round out AT side mounts, a comparison picture of a 94 G13BA and 99 G13BB rubber mount and dust shield. Different part number 1032425, with one strangely prominent bellow. ![]() RA still has old stock Beck Arnley CVJ boots in stock with closeout pricing. And the clamps are the correct size and look to be made of better material than the previous Moog boots I have been using. (Finally RA sent me a new fridge magnet!)Ĭountry of origin has changed from USA to China, but the boot rubber quality seems supple and correct thickness. I had ordered new 'premium' Beck Arnley outer CVJ boots from RA (RockAuto) for usr on my Cultus as well as to refresh the outer boots for your project car axles. (plus it gives me another reason to go visit my favourite wrecking yard). I do so dislike the need to alter the mount points on the unibody for different engine/trans combos. ![]() Since the transmission is so close to thd frame rail, the rubber mount must be attached with a through bolt through the frame rail and the 2 mount threaded studs go vertically down through the holes indicated by the red arrows, and nuts secure the mount to the bracket. The G13 rubber mount and bracket used for a 19 G13 automatic are the same. So the rubber mount bolts up into a sheet metal frame rail extension, instead of having a through bolt passing through the frame rail. The narrow G10 engine and automatic trans has a lot of space beside it. the side transmission cover shape is very different but the bracket bolt holes are in the same position in the transmission case. ![]() Let's compare the G10 and G13 automatic mount bracket first.ġ989-1994 G10 auto bracket bolts - two at front, one at the side.ġ994 or 2001 G13 auto trans mount bracket has the same bolt locations - two at front, one at side. Since you are going from a G10 automatic to a G13BB automatic, the trans mount and bracket from your 2001 Swift will be directly usable in Belle, after the 1994 sheet metal mount extension is trimmed off and a new hole is drilled through the frame rail for the mount through bolt. Left automatic transmission mount research findings: )Īnd since I am still waiting for project Bo's (second! ) engine block to be completed and returned by the machine shop, I have been busy painting small parts, and a little green and grey paint will help to protect these axle housings (NTN colors!). I have a crate of fresh NTN grease (long story, don't ask. The left cv axle is fine as is, with no boot issues, I might slide the boot back and re-grease it. I will get a new boot and re-grease the outer joint at the same time. The right outer axle boot has very fine cracks in one of the folds of the boot bellow but it has not yet split. The intermediate shaft bearing is quiet, clean and will get a bit of grease before the right axle is re-inserted, The right axle inner joint boot is good. Since the car has low mileage and service stickers, and the CVJ housing has a bare machine finish, I think a dealer service dept. Both CV axles appear to be have been recently serviced, based on the appearance of the axles and brand of clamps. The 94 sedan had 109,000 miles.Īll parts have NTN markings. ![]() The boots are dirty but intact and there were no rough noises during rotation or flex tests at the wreckers. The left (Driver side) cv axle is shown on the left and beside it is the intermediate shaft still attached to the right (Passenger side) cv axle. (firewall transmission mount and brackets will be cleaned up later) I might have to repost this after the Tapatalk vs Coyote-X GMF site decision by Johnny, but here is my assessment of your CV axle parts.
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